Istanbul-Topkapi Palace

Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, with the conquest of then Constantinople, simultaneously closed and opened two ages. Now the capital of the Ottomans was to be Istanbul , and the Sultan was to build his palace here for the administration of the Empire.

The first palace of the sultans was built in the district of Beyazit (Old Palace). In 1465, however, Mehmet the Conqueror ordered the construction of a new palace on today’s Palace Point, then an olive grove. From that year until 1478 the first buildings were therefore constructed, and the administration of the Ottoman Empire began from the Topkapi Palace.

The new palace was surrounded by fortifications giving security to the whole area. Starting with the Conqueror’s small place, each succeeding sultan added additional pavilions and palaces, spreading finally to a total area of 700.000 meters square.

Historical Monuments

According to the traveler Evliya Çelebi, in the year 1640 the population of the place reached 40.000, as if it were a city or small state itself. The palace, which was used for four centuries, was named the “Cannon Gate” palace by the people out of respect for the cannons which gave protection to the gates and the grounds within. The palace walls extend a total of five kilometers, with multiple towers, surrounding the land as well as sea side of the palace. In addition to many small gates, six major gates, three on the sea and three on the land, give access to the grounds.

The main gate, called the “Empire Gate”, dates back to the period of the Conqueror. it is also called the First Gate today. The second gate, called the “Peace Gate”, marked the point from which the sultanate actually began. Today, this gate is the formal entrance to the Topkapi Museum.

The gate has owers on either side. It is known that some of the Ottoman ministers of the court were imprisoned here before sentencing. Through this gate we enter a 22 acre open court yard where holiday celebrations were observed, and where the sultan, but only the sultan himself, was always mounted on horseback .

At the far end of this court stands the third gate, the Gate of Felicity, in which the sultan’s throne was placed on occasions of the enthronement of a new sultan, on religious holidays, and days of public audience when complaints and grievances were heard. From the Gate of Felicity we enter the third open court. In this, and the fourth court further on, are located the pavilions and kiosks in which the sultans attended to daily business tasks, retiring to the Harem in the evening.

For four centuries the affairs of the Empire were directed from here, until the move of the court to the Dolmabahçe Palace in 1856. Let us now try to summarize in a brief visit the history of this great palace, whose every corner emits an air of endless, unrecordable history in itself.

When today we park our car, taxi or bus, was located the First Gate, along side the museum of St. Sophia . In early times this court contained several buildings belonging to the service of the palace.

The gate in front of which we now stand, stands like a medieval castle before us. The double towered gate’s cast iron doors were made in 1525 by Gayb bin Mehmet. The rooms beneath the towers housed the gatekeepers, as well as occasional imprisoned ministers.

The point today marks the formal entrance to the palace as a museum. From this gate we enter the Second Court, measuring 160 by 130 meters on a side. On the left of the court stands the Harem, the apartments of the councils of state and state receptions, military offices and the Inner Treasury.

On the right side stand the palace kitchens, built by the Conqueror, and re-constructed by the Great Architect Sinan, having twenty distinctive chimneys, and staffed by a kitchen brigade of 1,200. Today, the kitchens house the priceless Chinese and Japanese porcelain collections of the museum.

This is the room in which the Council of Ministers met. Constructed during the Reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, the Divan met under the chairmanship of the Grand Vizier (Secretary of State), from the time of Mehmet the Conqueror.

The screened window at the back of the chamber leads directly into the Harem, allowing the Sultan to discreetly follow the proceedings of the Divan. Foreigners were accepted here by the Grand Viziers, feasted, and the taken from here to the Sultan’s presence dressed in great robes and furs. The right section housed the Secretariat, where all the records of Divan decisions were written and kept.

The tower which rises from behind the Divan has its base dated from the time of the conqueror, with its upper portions restored by Mahmut II. Under the Ottoman period the tower was called the Justice Pavilion. In the original construction of the palace it appears there were six such towers forming an inner fortress .

12.000 pieces comprise the total of the Topkapi porcelain collection, of which approximately a third are on display here in he kitchens. The display is organized by Chinese dynasty, the first section showing 10th to 13th century green colored “Seledon” pieces, said to have been popular for eating by the sultans as they react chemically to poisons, forewarning the eater. Opposite to these are the 14th Century Yuan Dynasty blue and white porcelains and, in the central display cases are 14th to 17th century Ming Dynasty porcelains.

In the second section, again, Ming period blue and white porcelains are displayed. As the Ming dynasty was much loved by the Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, large quantities were accumulated during the period of his sultanate. In the third and fourth sections are shown 17th-20th century multi-colored Ching Dynasty porcelains.

In the last section Japanese porcelains, with their unique designs and styles, attract our attention. Beyond this, we enter the last section of the kitchen in which are shown kitchen implements representative of those used in these palace kitchens.

After viewing the small glass collection opposite the line of kitchens, we are now ready to see the palace proper, and bring ourselves to the Gate of Felicity, the Third Gate .

This court was known to be the ceremonial court of the sultan. In particular, the enthronement ceremonies, and the quarterly distribution of payroll to the Jannisseries, were highly impressive. At such times, the sultan’s golden throne was placed under the arch of the Gate of Felicity.

In departing for battle, the sultan would present the standard of the empire to the official battle flag bearer in a ceremony at this gate. The flag otherwise stand next to the gate. As this gate was guarded by white eunuchs, it is also known as the “White Eunuch’s Gate” On its right are the quarters of the gate keepers, and on the left the quarters of the white eunuchs. The gate is decorated inside and out with writings. just inside the gate stands the Throne Room of the Sultan.

The garments shown in this hall are displayed in a chronological order, starting with Mehmet the Conqueror and ending with Resat V. The fabrics, all of such Turkish materials as silk, velvets, and canvas, are very beautiful and eye catching. The full garment collection has been maintained through two Ottoman traditions.

First, each sultan always presented one costume to the Treasury during his reign. Second, as the clothing of any Sultan was traditionally holy, on the death of the Sultan his total wardrobe was carefully wrapped and kept in the palace. As a result, almost the total of all garments worn by each Sultan is maintained in the palace today, only a sample of which is represented here.

In the inner rooms of this hall are shown, in addition, clothing of the wardrobe hall. Moving to the right, down a few marble steps we reach a columned doorway entering the rooms which were originally the pavilions of Mehmet the Conqueror, and today house in four rooms one of the greatest treasuries anywhere in the world .

The palace originally contained several treasury areas. For example, in one room was kept the so-called “Ambassadors Treasure” consisting of the rich objects which were used by Ottoman representatives abroad, and kept here when not in use. In addition, the relics of the Prophet Mohammed, the Inner Treasury, and the Equestrian Treasury were each separately housed.

It is believed that the original treasures of the Sultans were kept in the Seven Towers Gate section of the City Walls. The collection we see now consist of gifts of ambassadors, enthronement gifts, and purchases of the Sultans themselves. The largest treasure from the spoils of war was added by Sultan Yavuz Selim, whose seal closed the treasury doors until recent times in recognition of his accomplishment.

Nearby Attractions

The artifacts of the treasure were deposited in closets and chests until the time of Abdülmecit. According to Palace laws, each Sultan was to visit the Treasury after his enthronement. When Abdülmecit made the customary visit the ordered that some of the items be placed on exhibit during the Crimean War.

Following in his steps, Abdülaziz and Abdülhamit II. also exhibited some items. From time to time foreign ambassadors were also shown the collection which we now see. The sultan himself was alone allowed to enter the treasury, or in his absence, a group of forty men together.

The collection was filled and emptied many times over because of the constant flow in and out of gifts to and from the courts of the world. Each year a gift was sent to the grave of the prophet Mohammed, some of which are now returned and seen today .

Entering on the right we see a case containing the amour or Sultan Mustafa III. The suit is of iron mail, encrusted in gold an precious stones. It offered full protection from head to toe, and included sword and shield and foot gear for his mount.

In the second case are shown Koran covers decorated with pearls, for the personal use of the Sultans. Of particular interest is the cover in black velvet, decorated in pearls and carrying in the center a diamond “God Bless” and finished with three pearl tassels.

In the third case is the ebony throne of sultan Murad the IV., inlaid with ivory and mother - of - pearl, and covered in a fabric throw typical of 17th century Turkish handwork.

At the side, in the fourth case are shown 16th and 17th century Turkish and Iranian pots, vases, and water jugs. Opposite, in the fifth case, and belonging to the Egyptian Governor Mehmet Ali Pasha, are gold candelabras, and an 18th century gold water pipe belonging to the Governor of Van , Mustafa Pasha and several candle snips. In the sixth case, solid jade vases and ports, form a background for the diamond studded walking stick of Abdülhamit II., a gift of Kaiser Wilhelm.

In the seventh case, belonging to the mother of Sultan Mahmut II. is a golden candelabra. A washing set and sherbet set, also in gold, belonging to Abdülhamit II. are representative of a high quality of gold work. Next to the door, in the eighth case is an ornate Indian music box. From here we turn to the central cases in the room, where are exhibited a large number of heavily decorated military items, in addition to many personal items belonging to members of the Sultan’s household.

As we enter the room, on the right, in the first case are emerald praying beads, and arrow quivers of 16th century manufacture by Turkish artisans, covered in gold, measuring 35 by 67 centimeters. The quiver immediately in front of us is decorated in flower motifs done in diamonds and emeralds. In the second case at its top is a hanging pendant belonging to Sultan Abdülhamid I. of emerald, framed in gold.

It is undoubtedly one of the most striking pieces in the room, containing three large emeralds shaped in a triangle, leaf patterns surround framed in gold, and 48 strings of pearls forming the tassel. Along with 97 other treasures, this tassel was originally a gift of the sultan to the tomb of the Prophet Mohammed in Mecca, and was returned to Istanbul when Mecca no longer lay within the borders of the Empire, through the efforts of Fahrettin Pasha, guardian of the treasury.

In the same case is a six-sided pendant of emerald belonging to Sultan Ahmet I. The body sits on a six pearl foot, with each of its six sides framed in gold. The cover is domed in a gold lattice, encrusted with diamonds and sapphires.

The old plaque at the base indicates that it was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I. in the year 1617 at a price of 6000 gold pieces. In the lower corner of this case, on a turban, is a 17th century plume-decorated with two five centimeter emeralds in length, formed on a heavy gold pin. Its top is decorated with two five centimeter emeralds and a garnet stone, framed by diamond-encrusted gold leaves, and loops of pearl chains. An additional pendant in this same case was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I.

In the third case, at the top, is an emerald pendant belonging to Sultan Mustafa, and an emerald dagger belonging to Mehmet IV. This dagger is a fine example of 17th century craftsmanship, being 31 centimeters in length, its handle of solid emerald, worked in gold an other precious gems. It was a present to the Sultan Mehmet IV. at the dedication of the Yeni Mosque.

In the fourth case of this room is a very eye - catching emerald pendant, 55 centimeters in length, with a four centimeter long emerald at its top. Beneath this a gold plaque decorated in diamonds, on either side of which are inscriptions to Sultan Abdülmecid I. At its base are round and hexagonal emeralds surrounded with pearls.

The tassel at the base is of seventeen strings of pearls. In the same case are found bases for Turkish coffee cups and turban tassels and plumes. In the fifth case are feather - like plumes and quivers, the emerald quiver at the bottom being particularly lovely.

Due to the film, “TOPKAPI”, this dagger has become world famous, a gift to the Persian King Nadir Shah, However, with the killing of the Shah in an uprising, the dagger was returned to the treasury in Istanbul. It is 35 centimeters long, and features three very large emeralds in its handle. Under an eight-sided emerald cover at its top, is found a small watch. around this cover, along both sides of the handle are rows of diamonds.

The back side of the handle is done in mother - of - pearl and enamel we move to the central case of the room which contains a fine example of 17th Century woodwork, the throne of Sultan Ahmet I. The throne was made by the palace mother - of - pearl inlay expert Mehmet Aga, done in walnut, mother - of - pearl and tortoise shell. Overall it is encrusted in precious stones.

Across, in the seventh window, are very valuable hand-carved works of jade. In the eighth case is the golden cradle in which newborn prospective sultans were first presented to the proud reigning father Sultans. It measures 103 by 54 centimeters, its surfaces decorated in flower motifs enriched by diamonds and emeralds. The pendent over - hanging the cradle completes the princely effect.

In this salon are more diamond and gold works. In the case on the right of the entrance are Koran covers decorated in precious stones. in the second case is a dessert set belonging to the Sultan Abdülhamit, as well as a gold incense burner, and an enameled sherbet set.

At the top of the third case is a pendant carrying the seal of the sultan Mahmut II., itself of diamonds, on a blue and pink enamel background. The chain is of gold, and the tassel 45 strings of 38 centimeters of pearls. In the same case is a grouping of several very large, very famous cut diamonds.

The broaches, rings ad other jewelry items here are equally lovely. In the fourth case, of particular note are the gold tray and gold incense burner.

The 86 karat stone is set in silver and surrounded by 49 smaller, perfect diamonds. It takes its name from the spoon-like shape of the cut. According to a tale, the French officer Pigot bought the diamond in India and brought it to France, where, after many changes of hands, it came into the hands of Napoleon’s mother.

She, in turn sold it to save her son from exile. In this sale it came into the hands of Tepedelenli Mehmet Ali Pasha, from which it was then transferred to the Ottoman Treasury. It is said the surrounding diamonds were and addition of the Sultan Mahmut II.