Ephesus: Ephesus Museum

For the site, a suitable place was long sought before the decision was taken. At last the mosque decided to build on the site of the palace of Ayse Sultan. The owner of the palace was compensated and the site prepared by the architect Mehmed Aga, who began the construction in 1609.

This architect poet and inlayer completed this great work in 1617. An imperial lodge, school, service kiosk and single and double storied shops were included in the complex, which spread over the area around the mosque. The mosque itself is surrounded on three sides by a broad courtyard, and is entered on each side by a total of eight portals. The inner court is reached through three gates, and is paved in marble, and surrounded by revaks supported on columns of pink granite and marble, and two of porphyry, and surmounted by 30 cupolas. A fine fountain for ablution takes up the center of the courtyard, surrounded by six marble columns. The mosque is unique with its six minarets in Istanbul . Four of these have three balconies, two have two balconies each, a total of 16 in all.

According to the memoirs of Mehmed Aga, the “Risale-i Mimariyeâ€� -the number of balconies was originally to be 14 in honor of the number of Ottoman sultans, but in the 16th century, the number was increased by two, according to Incicyan, to include the sons of Yildirim Bayezid, Emir Suleyman and Musa Celebi, who had meanwhile been counted among the sultans. This mosque intended to match and compete with Ayasofya , but in reality surpass it in proportion and the balance of internal spaces. It covers an area of 64×72 m in all.

The central dome rests on four pointed arches with corner pendentives, which are in turn set upon four large round and fluted piers, 1.60 m in diameter. Four semidomes, one to each side of the central dome, and small cupolas in the corners complete the roof-system of the mosque. The sultan’s gallery in the left corner is flanked by the penitentiary cell of Ahmed I. Sultanahmet Mosque is given a bright and open effect through carefully calculated illumination balanced with faience decorating in the interior, as if heralding a new type of architecture.

The most original feature of the mosque is the 260 windows through which it is so well lit. Later these colored windows were repaired and consequently light entering the interior increased. However this is said to have removed the mystic atmosphere of the interior. According to Celal Esat Arseven, the architect Mehmet Aga has attempted to create an extremely well lit sofa, (divan area).

The walls and piers are covered with faience for a third of their height to the level of the upper consoles. A total of 21043 tiles have been used in the interior. The mosque received its synonym as the Blue Mosque from the bluish haze given to the interior by these tiles. The faience consists of floral and rumi motifs of various colors on white ground. These are very fine examples of the art of tiling. The bronze and wooden decorations and artifacts of the mosque are also very fine. Calligraphy is the work of Ameti Kasim Gubari and the fine mother-of-pearl window shutters are the work of Sedefkar Mehmet Aga. Ahmet I died in 1617 and was buried near the mosque.

The tomb, which was begun after this date, was completed in the time of his son Osman II. The building is basically rectangular with a domed portico and a square extension at the rear. The entrance rivak is supported on 6 columns, with a cross vault in the center flanked by a cupola on either side. The ebony doors of the tomb are worked with inscriptions from the Koran.

The plaster windows have been replaced by glass, making the interior very light. The narrow panels between these windows on the interior are covered with 17th century tiling. These are dark green, dark red, blue and white. The most striking feature of this tiled decoration is a band of inscription in reserve white over a dark blue back ground around the interior. The dome and walls are plastered. Above the marble mihrab-like niches on the facade facing the entrance are to be found inscriptions relating to the construction of the tomb of Osman II. This mausoleum contains 36 tombs of various sizes; the central one of which belongs to Ahmet I. In front of the mausoleum a marble-faced clock tower was built during the 19th century. Behind this is a library.

The excavations which have been continueing since the last century at Ephesus, today are being carried out by Austrian archaeologists. The works unearthed during these excavations are being displayed at the Ephesus Museum. However the works obtained in excavations prior to World War II, were taken to the Vienna Museum. The works museum which formerly was situated in a small building, the new building was further enlarged in 1979 to the present size of today's Ephesus Museum. The works brought from the ruins of Ephesus, the Temple of Artemis, the Ayasoluk Hill and the Belevi Mausoleum are being displayed in this museum. All of these are spread out in seven different halls. The first hall is for household findings. Here, the frescoes found in the homes of Ephesus and the mosaics among which the head of Medusa and Dionysos of 5th century take place, draw attention. The most remarkable one is the fresco of Sokrates, the famous philosopher, made in 1st century A.D. Again the head of Sokrates made out of marble in 3rd century A.D. is also being exhibited in this hall. Another remarkable work in this hall which is on display in a showcase and made in form of the fountain of a pool is the small Statue of Eros with Dolphin which belongs to the 2nd century A.D. The waters are being poured out of the eyes of dolphin into the pool. Statues of Asklepios, the God of Health, of Artemis, small statue of the Egyptian monk of 6th century B.C. and the Statue of Bes, made out of baked soil in 2nd century AD., symbolizing fertility are the favourite works of this hall. The most attractive one among the statues and heads of Eros, taking place in this hall, is the Roman Copy of Eros' head made by Lysippos in the Hellenistic period. Next to the child Eros' head, found in Bouleuterion, the portrait bust of Menander, the comedy writer takes place.

Busts of Emperor Tiberius and the Empress Livia, Statue of Artemis and the bronze human head of Roman period are some of the other works of this hall.

From this hall, it is proceeded into a hall where findings of a small door and a fountain take place. The first work on the right hand side is the head of Zeus of 1st century B.C Next to this, the statue of Aphrodisias of 1st century A.D. and in the centre the statue of a resting warrior of I st century A.D. take place. On the left hand side of the same hall, the statue group of Polyphemos and Odysseus of 1st century A.D. can be seen. These works initially placed on the frontal of the Temple of Augustus, later were moved to the Fountain of Pollio. On the ground, the friends of Odysseus killed by the giant and on the side, Odysseus carrying a stake to take the giant's eye out are seen. Right across from this group the statues of Trajan Fountain take place. Here statues of young Dionysus of 2nd century A.D., of Satyr in laying position (2nd century A.D.)and of Dionysus and imperial family by the wall are exhibited. On the other side of this hall, are the statues of Laecanius Bassus Fountain, also called the Water Palace. On the wall, the Roman copies of the head of a warrior with helmet and the head of Lysimachos of 5th century B.C are some of the works which draw attention.

From here, it is proceeded to the hall of recent findings. Crosses, coins and the works of I st century AD. such as glass trays, theatrical masks, candles found in the Seven Sleepers' Cavern; the bust of Emperor Marcus Arelius found in homes on the slope are some of the works that can be seen here. The ivory frieze which is one of the finest works of the Museum was found in the homes of the slope in 1969. The work which belongs to 2nd century AD. depicts the war, Emperor Trajan fought against barbarians, Emperor Trajan can be clearly identified in the high relief on the central panel, From here, it is proceeded to the garden of Museum. In the frontal of a temple placed in this garden one can see the friezes of the Pollio Fountain completed and placed thereon, Also pillar heads, and on the west wall, tomb and vow steles are being exhibited here, The large sarcophagus which takes place in the garden is brough't here from the Belevi Mausoleum which is at a distance of 11 km. from Selçuk, It is believed that this Mausoleum of 3rd century B.C., belongs to Antiochos Theos II, died in 246 B.C. in Ephesus, who is one of the kings of Seleukos after Alexander the Great. Today at the site of this Mausoleum which is 23 m. high and has dimensions of 29 .65x29 .65 m. only its pedestal can be seen

From the garden, it is proceeded to the tomb findings hall. Here, interment ceremonies and traditions, and also tomb findings are on display. Also, Mycenaean dishes found in one of the graves which dates back to almost 1400 B.C. and is located at St. Jean, can be seen here. In the middle of this hall, a ciazomenae type sarcophagus of 5th century B.C., found in the Trade Agora of Ephesus and made of baked soil and also the works found in it are being exhibited. Also, the works found in the Seven Sleepers' Cavern are in this hall. In addition, the statue of the mother Goddess Cybele which belongs to 6th century B.C., and the stele of Olympia, the daughter of Diokles of 2nd century B.C. are other works that attract attention.

In the Artemis hall which is visited next, the statues of Artemis and the works found in the Temple of Artemis take place. Both statues of Artemis, one called the Great Artemis and the other called the Beautiful Artemis were found during the excavations made at Ephesus Prytaneion. The Great Artemis is 2.92 m. tall and belongs to 2nd century A.D. and has a triple bonnet on her head. The Beautiful Artemis is 1.74 m. tall and is made about 50 years after the other and besides her, sacred animals take place. These statues, with their multibreasts, represent fertility. The golden goddess statue found in the excavations of the Temple of Artemis which is on display in the showcase belongs to 2nd century B.C. The ivory, baked soil, bronze and golden works belong to the period between 7th and 5th centuries B.C. and were left at the temple as vow articles. From here, it is proceeded to a hall where emperor cults and portraits are on display. The first statue seen in this hall is of 6th century A.D. and belongs to Consul Stephanos. Other portraits which belong to distinguished inhabitants of Ephesus belong to 3rd century A.D. 4 pieces of friezes which belong to Temple of Hadrianus of 3rd century are also being displayed in this hall. In the centre, a part of the altar of Domitian Temple can be seen. Also Julia Paula's bust, and the bust of emperors such as Commodus, Trajan, Nero, Germanicus and Augustus take place here. When we leave this hall after seeing the statues of Augustus and of his wife Livia we shall have completed our tour through the Museum.