Cappadocia: Goreme
It’s not surprising to see a marvellous fairy chimney next to a modern building. The fairy chimney in the centrum is known as Roman Castle and with the flag on it, it’s the symbol of the city. Increasing number of modern hotels besides the small authentic guest houses is the result of development in Goreme.
Uzundere (stream) running through the city towards the north, irrigates Guvercinlik Valley far ahead. If we walk along the Uzundere towards Uchisar direction, we can visit the Durmus Kadir Church there. There are Yusuf Koc and Esikli churches across it. On the Goreme-Uchisar direction, it’s possible to reach those churches passing by the fairy chimney called Haci’nin Yeri in which there is a restaurant with an interesting ambiance.
After a joyful stroll, on the way to open air museum, we can pass through Zemi and Gorkun Valleys. We may start with Sakli church parking our car in the parking lot. Having climbed the path, we can enjoy the beautiful scenery. Now we have Kiliclar Valley on the east, El Nazar Church, Zemi and Gorkun valleys on the west. That’s the ideal place to shoot some photos. In a few steps, we arrive at the Sakli Church. As we walk down-hill, we can visit El Nazar Church which is being restored, and reach to Gorkun Stream.
At that point, the monumentally eroded structures upto sky are surrounded by the green nature. Having enjoyed what we saw, we can get back to our car and following a short rest we can go to Kiliclar Valley moving along the direction to Open air museum and taking the path on the left, we face the Kiliclar Valley. The valley situated between Goreme Valley and Aktepe is called Kiliclar Valley.
That valley of white tuff rocks is guarded by the Kiliclar Church. The church in style of Hellenic Cross (Greek Cross), is decorated with the depictions out of the Bible. The church, dated back to 9th -10th century, has a dome supported by four columns. Against the southern facade there’s another church that has the apsis and deisis depictions on half of the dome. There is a monastery in 50 m northwest. The Virgin Mary Church 300 m away from the museum behind the Tokali Church in south of Kiliclar Church, is worth to see.
Having seen the churches in Open air museum, we can take the way to see Aynali Church against the Kaya Camping. On the way to Urgup-Nevsehir turn, we have 2 km to go up to Aktepe hillside. It’s a unique pleasure to watch sunrise or sun-set here. Moreover, we may enjoy a stroll to the Kiliclar and Kizilcukur valleys.
Since it is easy to get to, not far from the road, Goreme is always the first place to visit, and also the place which tends to stay in the memory when Cappadocia is referred to. Here, in Goreme, churches generally consist of three naves, and mostly date from the 9th century and after. The earliest church in the district was built in the 1st century. After the iconoclastic period, the walls of this church were decorated with scenes from the scriptures.
It is evident that two different techniques have been used in the church decoration, the first, a more primitive style of painting directly onto the rock, the second, which is to be seen in churches of the 11th/12th century, is a type of painting over plaster, which provided a flat sur- face for more sophisticated motifs, and finer detail. Some of the older churches have rock drawings that have been covered with wattle and daub and re-painted. Now let us look at the other churches of Goreme. On the left of the entrance to this open-air museum can be seen a steep rock which houses a convent.
This has six floors. The third floor contains a cruciform chapel with cross-vaulting, which is decorated with red designs.
The remaining traces indicate that this belongs to the 11th century. The first and second floor contained a refectory and kitchens which are much damaged, while the cells of the nuns are still to be seen, connected with tunnels.
On the fourth and fifth floors can be seen the mill-stones used in the event of an attack. Opposite this is a monastery with the same plan. Soon after this one comes on the Elmali Church .
Coming from Ankara, after travelling through Ihlara and Nevşehir, one arrives at Ürgüp. After leaving Nevşehir, one notices the striking fortresses of Uçhisar on the right and Ortahisar on the left, rising out of the plains. Let us now visit Göreme, 7 km. from Ürgüp
Since it is easy to get to, not far from the road, it is always the first place to visit, and also the place which tends to stay in the memory when Cappadocia is referred to. Here, churches generally consist of three naves, and mostly date from the 9th century and after. The earli- est church in the district was built in the 1st century. After the iconoclastic period, the walls of this church were decorated with scenes from the scriptures.
It is evident that two different techniques have been used in the decoration, the first, a more primitive style of painting directly onto the rock, the second, which is to be seen in churches of the 11th/12th century, is a type of painting over plaster, which provided a flat sur- face for more sophisticated motifs, and finer detail. Some of the older churches have rock drawings which have been covered with wattle and daub, and re-painted. Now let us look at the other churches of Göreme. On the left of the entrance to this open-air museum can be seen a steep rock which houses a convent .
This has six storeys. The third storey contains a cruciform chapel with cross-vaulting, which is decorated with red designs.
The remaining traces indicate that this belongs to the 11th century. The first and second storeys contained a refectory and kitchens which are much damaged, while the cells of the nuns are still to be seen, connected with tunnels.
On the forth and fifth storeys can be seen the mill-stones used in the event of attack. Opposite this is a monastery with the same plan. Soon after this one comes on the Elmalı Church.